Strip-Knit Slipper Sock

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This web page and all contents (pattern, pattern variations, scans, text, etc.) are Copyright © 2007 by Linda Victorek/GoodiesList. Pattern may be used for personal use.

 

BUB was so bloody boring & the mind was dissatisfied & it continued to simmer & seethe, burble & boil &, finally, it spat out this.  Let me see...was there any source of inspiration? (or to re-phrase...can I lay blame somewhere?)  No, not really.  It was just one of those "it seemed like a good idea" sort of thing.  The idea being that it should be possible to use the strip-knitting technique and end up with something sock-like.  Possibly, this is not a technique for everyone.  However, it probably would work out OK to make the top and bottom as separate pieces & then sew them together.   (Of course, I don't sew, so don't mind me.)
     
  Strip-Knit Slipper Sock  

 Variation

  

 

 

STRIP-KNIT SLIPPER SOCK DIRECTIONS

Materials: about 4 -5 oz. worsted weight yarn. Size 7 straight needles.  Size 7 circular needles for the cuff.

Approximate Gauge in stockinette stitch:  9 stitches & 13 rows  = 2":

Size: fits my size 9 foot. To re-size, use a sock with a gusset as a "pattern".  Lay your swatch test on it to see it the test is about the same width as the finished sock.  To determine length from toe to the start of the gusset,  just get out a ruler & measure the finished sock.   With the gusset, you're pretty well stuck following the directions..

Abbreviations: K2TOG-TBL = Knit 2 together through the back loop. 

                        P2TOG = Purl 2 together. 

                        INC = Knit in front & back of stitch.

                               

CONSTRUCTION SEQUENCE
 

The scan at right shows the sequence of construction.

The Top (1) is worked with edge stitches that are made by slipping the first stitch of every row. 

While knitting the Sole/Back of Leg (2) it is attached to the Top by working a K2TOG-TBL / P2TOG using the edge stitches on the Top. 

Finally, the Cuff (3) is worked on a circular needle.

 

 

THE TOP:

Do a provisional cast-on of 7 stitches and purl one row.

1.) Slip, INC, K2, INC,  K2. 

2.) Slip, P8

Continue to INC one stitch on each side of every Knit row until there are 21 stitches.  Work even on 21 stitches for 3 inches. 

GUSSET (sort of): INC one stitch each side until there are 37 stitches.  Cut yarn & put the first & last 8 stitches on a string.  BTW, I kept 19 stitches between the increases rather than keeping them at the every edge.

LEG:  Re-attach yarn in the 9th stitch & work even on 21 stitches for 3.5" inches. Cut yarn & put the 21 stitches on a string.

THE SOLE/BACK OF LEG: 

Put the 7 stitches from the provisional cast-on onto a knitting needle and attach yarn.

1) K1, INC, K2, INC,  K1.  Yes, you have one un-worked stitch. Slip the last un-worked stitch to the right hand needle. Use the left-hand needle to pick-up the back loop of the first edge stitch on the Top piece. Slip the last un-worked stitch back to the left hand needle and work K2TOG-TBL with it & the edge-stitch loop.

2.) Slip, P7.Yes, another un-worked stitch left over.  Slip the last un-worked stitch to the left hand needle.  Use the right hand needle to pick-up the back loop of the first edge stitch on the Top piece.  Slip the last un-worked stitch onto the right hand needle & work P2TOG with it & the edge-stitch loop.

(If you need any further explanation about knitting off edge stitches, check your local library for Viv Hoxbro's "Domino Knitting".  Don't email me.  I tried & this is as good as it gets <G>.)

Increase to 21 stitches & work until you've used up all of the edge-stitches which means you're ready to tackle the live stitches that form the Gusset.  No big deal here.  You simply work off the live stitches with either a K2TOG-TBL or a P2TOG. However...

After working off the first live stitch which should be with a P2TOG, the heel is shaped with short rows. Here's the sequence I used:

K20, Turn   //   P19, Turn   //   K17, Turn   //   P15, Turn   //   K13, Turn   //   P11, Turn   //   K 9, Turn   //   P7, Turn.

Knit all, working off a live stitch at end of row.   //   Purl all, working off a live stitch at end of row.

K14, Turn   //   P7, Turn   //   K9, Turn   //   P11, Turn   //   K13, Turn   //   P15, Turn   //   K15, Turn   //   P19, Turn.

Knit all, working off a live stitch at end of row.   //   Purl all, working off a live stitch at end of row.

Continue to work off all of the live stitches & then keep on until the rest of the edge stitches have been worked off.   Don't bind off or cut the yarn. Put the stitches onto a string.

THE CUFF: 

Put all of the stitches from the Top & Sole/Back of Leg (should be 42) onto a #7 circular needle and knit one round.  Work in ribbing or non-curling pattern stitch for 3" & bind off.

VARIATION: 

The variation was started about 4AM one day when I had a crummy-crummy cold & was totally out-of-it & the notes I made are a mystery even to me.  (How did I ever manage to make a pair?)  Anyway, don't expect explicit directions for this.  The yarns, although both proclaiming "worsted weight" on the label, were two slightly different thickness & I had to go & use different stitches for the Top & the Sole/Back of Leg & the Cuff.  (Whatever was I thinking?)  Anyway, if you're in the mood for a challenge, read on.  As far as I can decipher:  the Top was started with #7 needles with the slightly thinner yarn, stockinette stitch, and increased to only 19 stitches.  Then changed to #6 needles, introduced the thicker yarn & worked in row pattern of Knit Purl Knit Knit. It seems that the gusset has 9 stitches. The Sole/Back of Leg was started the same as the Top but increased to 23 stitches. Looks like extra stitches were added in the middle of the last few rows.  Next, changed to #8 needles, introduced the thicker yarn & worked in "Pin Check Variation" stitch pattern in Barbara Walker's "First Treasury of Stitches".  The Cuff was worked on a #7 circular needle in "Waffle Check Variation"  (also in Walker's First Treasury).  And, in spite of everything - they fit!  (However did this happen? Who knows. Who cares. They FIT!)

On the back burner: 

It should be possible to work this slipper so that the gusset is on the bottom.  So far, I'm not entirely pleased with the curve in the back of the gusset (& there probably just ain't a dang thing to do about it!). The only complete sample I've done so far probably makes you wonder "Oh, is she color blind?"  Not that I'm aware <G>.  You see, I just grab up whatever junky, fidget yarn is available when I'm trying to work out a pattern.

In this sample, I used alternate rows of "K1, Slip-1" and "Purl"  for the Sole/Back of Leg.  It is a bit cushy-ier to walk on & the vertical lines seem to help the appearance of the heel.  With stockinette stitch the heel really billows out!  This came out a bit small but the contrasting wedge of the gusset is really pretty sharp looking. Well, it would be... if the colors were better.   Anyway....

The basic recipe is pretty much the same as above.  Start by making the Sole/Back of Leg by following the directions for the Top piece. When doing the gusset, the increases really have to be worked in the 2nd stitch at the beginning and end of the row.  If they are worked immediately before & after the center 19 sts, the angle of the gusset is not "visually acceptable".  After the gusset increases are done,  work a series of short rows for the heel.  Continue for 2-3" for the back of the leg. 

To make the top, start by following the directions for the Sole/Back of Leg.  However, since the gusset & heel shaping is already done simply work back & forth after the toe increases.

 

 

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