T-minus Slipper Sock

BUB Slipper Sock

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This thing is based on a pattern for a late 1960s kiddie slipper sock*. The original pattern** is worked in stockinette stitch and requires massive amounts of sewing to finish up. However, it looked just-so-cute in the illustration (of course, it wouldn't be ugly... right?) and there was this ever-so handy-dandy line drawing for blocking that I thought two-snaps to make it up my size & without all the nasty-nasty sewing***.

Well, it did work but <sigh> it turns out to be nothing more than another big bootie. And, because of the ugly, junky fidget yarn I used it really deserves one name -- BUB (Big Ugly Bootie).

*Do not ask for the original pattern.

**Really, don't ask for it. If you do, you will be ignored. Don't even ask why you shouldn't ask.

***After about 6 stitches of sewing I begin to wonder if there isn't Something Else I should/could be doing. I really don't know what gives. Hand-sewing just so bugs me I think there must have been some sort of traumatic early childhood incident involving a sewing needle <shudder>.

BUB Slipper Sock

BUB-MOC Variation

BUB DIRECTIONS

Materials: about 4 -5 oz. worsted weight yarn in 3 colors. Size 7 needles.

Approximate Gauge in garter stitch, 8 ridges = 2"

Size: fits my size 9 foot.

Abbreviation: INC = knit in front and back of next stitch. K2tog = Knit 2 stitches together.

STARTING AT THE SOLE:

CO 68 stitches. ( I "cast on" to a crochet chain. This allows me to have "live stitches" when the chain is removed & then the seam is worked with a 3-needle bind-off.
1 & and all odd-number rows) Knit 2.) K33, INC-2x, K33 4.) K33, INC, K2, INC, K33 6.) K33, INC, K4, INC, K33 7.) Bind-off 9 sts (for back of heel) & Knit to end of row. [See Notes]
8.) Bind-off 9 sts (also for back of heel). Attach second color to 10th stitch. K24, INC, K6, INC, K24. [See Notes]
10.) Use first color. K24, INC, K8, INC, K24 10a) Short Row: K20, Turn; K20. 11.) Knit. 11a) Short Row: K20, Turn; K20. 12.) Use second color. K25, (INC, K2)-3x, INC, K25. 14.) Use first color. K24, INC, K14, INC, K24 14a) Short Row: K16, Turn; K16. 15.) Knit 15a) Short Row: K16, Turn; K16. 16.) Use second color. K25, (INC, K4)-3x, INC, K25. 18.) Use first color. Short rows are worked at the beginning and the end of this row. K12, Turn; K30, INC, K8, INC, K30, Turn; K12, Turn; K12. 19.) Knit & cut yarn.	This is the shape you end up with. When forming the heel, sew the edges highlighted in blue together.

THE TOE:

1.) Put the first 10 stitches onto a string or holder. Attach second color to the 11th stitch.

K14, (K2tog, K1)-4x, (K1, K2tog)-4x, K14. Put the last 10 stitches onto a string or holder.

2 & All Even numbered rows are Knit. (Yes, the numbering has changed so now the even numbered rows are knit.)

3.) Attach third color. K15, (K2tog, K1)-5x, K2tog, K15.

5.) Use second color. K14, (K2tog, K1)-3x, K2tog, K14.

7.) Use third color. K15, (K2tog)-2x, K15.

9.) Use second color. K14, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K14.

10.) Knit. Do not cut yarn.

Divide the stitches over 2 needles. Fold the toe section in half with right sides together. Do a 3-needle bind-off. The scan at right shows the toe after bind-off.

TOE VARIATION:

1.) Put the first 10 & last 10 stitches onto a string or holder. With right side of work facing, put 32 stitches on the left hand needle & 21 stitches on the right hand needle so that the points of the needles are oriented towards the toe. Attach 2nd color and: K11, (K2tog)-4x, Turn.

2) K4, K2tog, K1, Turn

3.) K5, K2tog, K1, Turn

4.) K6, K2tog, K1, Turn

5.) K7, K2tog, K1, Turn

6.) K8, K2tog, K1, Turn

7.) K9, K2tog, Turn

Repeat row 7 until all but the reserved 10 stitches at each end have been worked. This is a variation of the short-rows technique one often encounters on baby booties where the same number of stitches are worked on each row and produces at square toe. The instructions here will produce a more rounded appearance.

THE HEEL: Bring on set of the 9 bind-off stitches up to the next edge & sew up the seam. Repeat on other side.

THE CUFF: Change color as your heart desires. Since I was somewhat fed up with this project I used only 2 colors. Also, I worked only 17 rows before binding off. This makes a rather skimpy cuff. Ergo, after row 17 you'll want to do a try-on for fit & height to decide if more rows and/or decreases are needed. The directions that follow are for working on 2 straight needles. If you prefer, you can do up the sole seam and then work the cuff on circular needles (which is what I did).

Pick up 5 stitches along back of heel, knit 10 stitches from holder; pick up 11 stitches from toe edge; knit 10 stitches from holder; pick up 5 stitches from back of heel. (Of course, if you worked the toe varation, you won't have to pickup on the toe edge. rather, just knit those stitches.)

1.) Knit

2.) K14, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K14.

3.) Knit

4.) K13, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K13.

5.) Knit.

4.) K12, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K12.

5 - 17. ) Knit.

FINALLY: If you started with a cast on to a crochet chain, remove it & divide the stitches onto two needles. Fold the piece right side together & do a 3-needle bind-off. Sew the back of the cuff.

NOTES: Here's how to work the heel without sewing.

Row 7. Don't bind-off the 9 sts. Put them on a string or holder.

Row 8: Don't bind off the 9 sts. Put them on a string or holder. K24, INC, K6, INC, K23; K2tog (the last stitch on the needle and the first adjacent st on a string or holder.

Rows 10-19. At the end of each of these rows, knit one less stitch than indicated in the directions. Finish the row by knitting the last stitch on the needle with the first adjacent st on the string or holder. When you do the cuff, you'll only pick-up 4 sts (a total of 8 stitches) at the back of the heel.

BUB-MOC VARIATION: A sort of moccasin can be made by making the toe about 3" long. I've only done this with the toe variation. Instead of working all the way up to the last 10 stitches, I worked only 24 rows (12 ridges). After this, use circular needles to pick-up & knit stitches around the opening, purl a row & then bind-off. You'll have to do a try-on for fit. A possible work-around to the "try-on & go figure how much to decrease" would be to work a row of beading (K2tog, YO). Then you'll be able to thread in a ribbon, tug & tie to get a snug fit.

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